from the winter 2024 print issue
by Mas Tassini studio
Out with size, chape and material restrictions
out with conventions
In with joy !
You all understand the meticulous journey a high jewellery collection undergoes before it dazzles under the spotlight. From initial concepts to sketches and sourcing the perfect gems, each collection, particularly Boucheron‘s famed carte blanche, entails significant research from designers and financial teams.
In Paris, 2020, successive lockdowns cast shadows and dampened spirits, but amidst her mood boards, Claire Choisne sought to defy these paralyzing challenges. She conceived a daring idea: a High Jewelry collection unbound by conventions. Gone were restrictions on size, shape, and materials—replaced with a celebration of joy. The Boucheron studio at 26 Place Vendôme embraced their Creative Director’s bold vision with enthusiasm. Inspired by pop art, the rebellious spirit of Memphis artists, and the freedom of perspective, the mood boards bloomed with vibrant colors, geometric forms, and whimsical motifs.
This was the birth of a new High Jewelry, transforming reality into a joyous realm.
Imagine a colossal bow defying gravity in the hair, extravagant necklaces cascading over the chest, and jewels leaping from sketches to life in three dimensions—nothing was off-limits. Fuelled by new materials and technical innovations, Boucheron‘s studio dedicated itself to perfecting each design, ensuring gems were set with precision. At its heart, this collection celebrated enthusiasm, joy, and emotion—the true essence of preciousness, values cherished by Maison Boucheron for 165 years.
The “More is More” collection stands as a testament to technical mastery, experimentation, and intricate craftsmanship. These pieces embody boldness in High Jewelry, blending materials, stones, diamonds, and colors with audacious flair.
By expanding the boundaries of High Jewelry while upholding its core values, these creations transport us to a world where beauty meets innocence, enchantment thrives, and sophistication appears effortless—an exhilarating journey indeed.
on the cover – TIE THE KNOT
A gigantic bow in the hair: red on one side, black and white stripes – mimicking the “gros grain” code of Boucheron – on the other. Supple like cloth, light as a cartoon that would suddenly appear in real life.
ULTRA-LIGHT AMBITION
Set with diamonds and white gold, Tie the Knot magnifies High Jewelry by deploying its 29cm of pure poetry. Like a trompe l’oeil, floating mischievously on the side of the head, weighing only 94 grams: a prowess, that makes us forget its technical complexity. A fantasy comes true.
The red part of the bow is made with bio acetate, a favorite of eyeglass manufacturers: it is weightless and offers this shade – as close as it gets to the color of an iconic soda. Bio acetate is made from wood paste and cotton fibers, mixing lightness and sustainability, thanks to producing methods respectful of the environment. An exclusive in the world of High Jewelry, magnesium as a metal completes this technical prowess, on the back of the piece. Magnesium is 30% as light as aluminum and its density is ten times as light as gold. This new material required our craftsmen’s agility and for them to exceed their abilities. The delicate strips of this fantasy bow were first shaped, then dyed black by a cataphoresis treatment, before being set. A challenge when applied to this material, on which it would be impossible to resolder a claw, should it break during the setting process. The 200 parts necessary to the creation of this jewel were all carefully worked separately, then assembled, ensuring the final piece’s resilience as well as an aerial flexibility. The borders were dyed black, like a felt pen underlining the outlines of the reliefs to trick the eye.
Ring set
Ring paved with diamonds, yellow sapphires, and set with rock crystal, in resin, titanium and gold
Ring in mother of pearl , paved with tsavorites, decorated with lacquer , in resin and titanium
THIS IS NOT A RING
THIS IS NOT A SCRUNCHIE
This is not a ring. This is not a scrunchie. It is actually both, and so much more: a work of art. Surrealism emerges from these tiny pieces, made with a huge mastery of craftsmanship. Moving lines, letting their joy spread on the fingers or in the hair: modern art and High Jewelry interacting, blending, and having fun.
Jewels become objets d’art – with simple shapes, bright colours and revisited perspectives. Spheres, cubes, graphic stripes: pop and geometric pieces, that would have escaped from a 70s art gallery.
Vladimir the Cat
Brooch set with sapphires, quartz, and mother-of-pearl, paved with diamonds, and decorated with lacquer, in white gold.
Making fun jewels out of the traditional model of a brooch.
Brooch paved with diamonds, and decorated with lacquer, in silver and white gold.
PULL ME
THE WILD DREAM of the STREET CHIC
Who said hoodie strings could not be appropriate in High Jewelry? Why don’t we invent new codes for the precious? Here is a way to invest the most contemporary looks, from the most daily life, inspired by the design of the now iconic Jack. Daring High Jewelry, radiating on a hoodie; leaving hushed salons and great parties to be displayed on a redefined masculinity. Bursting into the light, drawing attention. Displaying, in this manner, its sensational preciousness.
A 40 cm long jewel, to be fixed – like a brooch – on the base of the hood. A multi-wear piece: strings become long earrings, or stud earrings entirely paved with diamonds. Duos can have fun sharing this playful piece, wearing it like a bonded manifesto. While one can wear it alone however they want, on any occasion.
Citrine, diamonds, black lacquer, onyx, white opal, yellow gold, titanium, aluminum: a whole palette of technical and precious materials. Put together, they allow the blooming of this jewellery oddity.
Necklace paved with diamonds, set with mother-of-pearl, and adorned with sapphire glass, in aluminum, and white gold.
THE WILD DREAM
Extra flat pearls with dizzying dimensions, their brightness radiating from the necklace. A two-finger ring, sweeping aside all we thought we knew about pearls.
GRAND NATURE
Giant pearls displayed on a pullover, a chest, or a hand like soap bubbles. The eye sees them as joyful spheres – when, mischievous and precious, they truly lie in two dimensions. Paying the most modern homage to a Boucheron archive necklace, initially made in fine pearls and diamonds.
The diameter of these spectacular pearls is 5.5 cm, shaped with the finest precision, to recreate a fantastic reality – where nature would play with proportions. A mother of pearl powder applied on an aluminum base; shades then added in digital printing to recreate the visual aspect of pearls born in nature.
A “sapphire glass” (usually used for watch faces only) laid on a white gold base, by a Swiss watch face artisan. Giving a slightly convex aspect both on the face and on the back of every pearl of the necklace and of the ring. Accentuating the illusion of XXL pearls.
Between every pearl, a diamond chain link perfects the homage to the pearl necklace created by Frederic Boucheron.
art direction Alexandra Mas
photography Marco Tassini
Set design Mas Tassini studio
(cotton, small props and hand painted panels have been used in the photo studio)
