The creative director, Patrice Lenguéreau, has revolutionized the standards of Chanel high jewellery, presenting in Monaco a completely contemporary collection characterized by linearity inspired by sport style. This inspiration traces back to Coco Chanel‘s own style, of course, as Mr. Lenguéreau often finds inspiration in her. She loved sport and used to wear very sporty, soft garments that accommodated body movement. In the 1920s, she even created the Atelier Sport within her haute couture house, emphasizing the importance of freedom of movement for women, even in jewelry.
Patrice Lenguéreau introduced new materials for Chanel jewellery craft, like carbon fiber and aluminum, along with ceramics, which is dominant in horology. This collection also features exceptional stones, with fewer colors and shades, focusing on purity and precision.
Why Monte Carlo? Well, Coco Chanel was very familiar with the Riviera and Monte Carlo, frequently attending the tennis tournaments and Grand Prix races. In 1913, she opened a store at the Hermitage Hotel, and in 1925, a perfume boutique at the Hotel de Paris. She even bought a house, La Pausa, in Roquebrune, just a few kilometers away.
Chanel Haute Joaillerie Sport unveils 7 chapters and 80 pieces, highlighting various symbols: the matelassé motif, the number 5, the lion (Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign), stars, and the chevron—a motif Coco Chanel introduced in 1932 in her first and only high jewelry collection, Bijoux de Diamants. The chevron, shaped like a V, suggests rhythm and speed. Patrice Lenguéreau wanted to revisit this technique, maintaining this link to our history.
The main materials are white gold, diamonds, and lacquer—red and black lacquer are prominent in this collection—along with onyx, aluminum, yellow gold, white diamonds, and yellow diamonds. There is a mesmerizing set with 5 blue sapphires from the Kashmir region, sapphires from Sri Lanka, and mandarin garnets. This collection truly embodies the essence of sporty elegance, blending innovation with Chanel’s timeless legacy.
by Alexandra I. Mas
photos by Marco Tassini
stay tuned for the print editorial and the interview with the Chanel creative director, Patrice Lenguéreau,
