by Alexandra I.Mas.
The CHANEL Fall-Winter 2024/25 Haute Couture collection, crafted by the Couture Creation Studio, has sparked lively discussions and debates even before its presentation. Whether or not you agree with this choice, or speculate about the yet-to-be-chosen designer to embody the Chanel legacy, it is undoubtedly the talk of the town. Forums and extensive arguments proliferate among fashion aficionados, with clients and journalists alike expressing a myriad of ideas and wishes.
The Chanel house, with its decades of strong foundations, relies heavily on its central pillar—the renowned couture creation studio. For this collection, the mise en scene is entrusted to a director we adore at EDGE, Christophe Honoré. A film director recently showcased at the Cannes Film Festival with an intimate film prominently featuring a chosen Chanel wardrobe.
The collection pays tribute to the Palais Garnier in Paris, a symbol of performance and elegance. Playing a key role in both the history of fashion and the House, this iconic venue is integral to Chanel‘s story. Sophisticated, luxurious, and theatrical, the collection unveils itself in the outside corridors surrounding the auditorium, which have been transformed into red velvet opera boxes for the occasion. Usual landmarks are altered, perceptions are reversed, and the experience of the Palais Garnier is renewed.
There is something profoundly resonant about the rigor of opera and CHANEL; they are woven from the same strong thread. Excellence in both ballet and haute couture are arts that are difficult to achieve and even harder to maintain. As Major Patron of the Opéra national de Paris since 2023, Patron of the Ballet de l’Opéra since 2021, and Patron of the dance season’s Opening Gala since 2018, CHANEL’s deep involvement is a testament to this shared commitment to artistry and perfection.
CHANEL’s history is intricately intertwined with the discipline of dance and the avant-garde ballets of both past and present. This century-long connection with movement is not just a historical footnote but a living, breathing part of the Maison’s identity. Gabrielle Chanel herself created revolutionary costumes for iconic ballets like Le Train Bleu (1924) and Apollon Musagète (1928), establishing a legacy of innovation and elegance that continues to inspire the House’s creations.
In this collection, the worlds of Haute Couture and opera seamlessly intertwine. Feathers, tassels, cabochons, and embroidered flowers, precious braids, lacquered jersey, supple tweeds, silky velvet, illusion tulle, taffeta, and duchesse satin—all opulent materials that rustle with elegance. The volumes are diaphanous, the sleeves puffed, and the flounces meticulously pleated. Richly embroidered, the collection imbues the House codes with a romantic twist.