Our director, Marco Tassini, had the pleasure of meeting acclaimed artist Nelly Agassi at the Tod’s fashion show, where her installation seamlessly bridged art and fashion, captivating audiences with its innovative approach. Agassi, a multidisciplinary artist based in Chicago, has an impressive portfolio of solo exhibitions at esteemed institutions, including the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, the Graham Foundation for Advanced Studies in the Fine Arts in Chicago, and the Nahum Gutman Museum in Tel Aviv. Her work has also been featured in prominent group exhibitions at venues such as Tate Modern in London, the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, and the Zacheta National Gallery of Art in Warsaw. In 2023, she presented the site-specific installation “Pleasure Garden” at Galeria Foksal in Warsaw, delving into the rich history of the gallery’s location. Agassi’s creations, which span performance, installation, video, textile, sound, and works on paper, explore the intricate relationship between the human body and architecture, weaving personal and collective narratives into a universal fabric of new history. Let’s delve into their conversation to gain deeper insights into her artistic journey and the inspiration behind her recent work.
For Tod’s I designed a large-scale sculptural garment worn by a model/performer who holds an oversized needle, creating a powerful visual dialogue between craftsmanship and contemporary art. The piece draws inspiration from Tod’s heritage of craftsmanship while simultaneously addressing the growing emphasis on sustainability. Through a poetic transformation of leather remnants, this work speaks to both preservation and innovation—core values consistently championed by Tod’s throughout its history.
How you could describe the piece you created for Tod’s show?
The garment incorporates a meticulous technique of assembling pieces, echoing Tod’s design language, and creating a harmonious connection with the collection. This approach honors the brand’s meticulous attention to detail and its commitment to artisanal excellence. Just as Tod’s creates pieces transcending seasonal trends while maintaining contemporary relevance, my design seeks to capture this delicate balance between timeless elegance and modern innovation.
The careful selection of materials reflects Tod’s philosophy of creating durable pieces that tell a story of quality and craftsmanship. Like the brand’s iconic items, which grow more beautiful over time, the garment celebrates the transformation of materials through artisanal work, suggesting that true luxury lies in thoughtful preservation and elevation of resources rather than excess.
I’ve known Tod’s since childhood and always felt deeply connected to their artisanal approach. Everything they craft feels personal, creating a unique atmosphere in the fast-paced fashion world. Watching artisans dedicate time and care, meticulously crafting each piece, has always inspired me. For this dress, I specifically chose leftover materials, turning waste into gold—mirroring the alchemist’s transformation. This aligns closely with Tod’s ethos of educating their clients and future designers about creativity and sustainability, transforming existing resources into something beautiful, wearable, and cherished.
How did you find the inspiration for the creativity direction of the performance?
The essence of Tod’s “Art of Craftsmanship” perfectly aligns with my artistic practice, particularly in how the brand maintains its dedication to manual work and customization while operating on a global scale. This inspired my approach to creating a unique and powerful presence for the runway.
In my works, I view manual, time-intensive processes not as constraints but as meditative reflections. The performer’s stillness honors this dedication to craftsmanship, creating a contemplative moment amid the dynamic energy of a fashion show. The act of sewing becomes a metaphor for connection and healing—a poetic gesture reflecting Tod’s philosophy of merging traditional craftsmanship with contemporary vision.
My artistic practice involves two key elements that seamlessly combined in this project: collaborating with master craftsmen to achieve the highest production quality and what I call “the biography of place”—a research-based exploration of stories and narratives. For this project, I applied this investigative approach to Tod’s heritage, collaborating with their exceptional artisans to realize my vision. This organic fusion resulted in a piece embodying both strength and timeless presence—qualities that define the Tod’s brand.
What was the work behind your installation for Tod’s, and your creative process?
The inspiration for my installation for Tod’s arose from a deep appreciation for craftsmanship and the poetry of materials. Working with Tod’s was an extraordinary gift—an opportunity to collaborate with Creative Director Matteo Tamburini and world-renowned artisans, while overseeing production at the highest levels of excellence. What struck me most was the natural evolution of the project, as if there were an innate understanding between my artistic vision and Tod’s aesthetic philosophy.
The creative process felt like a conversation between longtime friends—an immediate, almost intuitive connection with the brand’s values and visual language. This natural synchronicity made the project particularly unique and special. It was one of those rare instances where creative dialogue flows effortlessly, as if we’d known each other for years.
What makes this project especially meaningful is how it embodies the marriage between refined, minimalist aesthetics and excellence in execution. My continuous curiosity for new techniques and materials found its perfect expression in Tod’s commitment to superior craftsmanship. The result is a piece that speaks to artistic innovation and timeless elegance, reflecting the brand’s heritage while pushing creative boundaries.
Just one final question…what do you think about AI artworks?
As an artist, I deeply value manual creation, and I see AI as a tool rather than a replacement for artistic touch. AI can support and elevate our work, particularly in language and communication. However, nothing replaces the intimacy, meditation, and soulfulness inherent in handcrafted art. The physical act of creation conveys the time, dedication, and emotional investment that AI simply cannot replicate.
