Giambattista Valli’s Autumn-Winter 2025 collection embraces a profound conversation between elegance and freedom, a sophisticated dance that honours the very essence of womanhood. At its heart lies a kaleidoscopic exploration of ease, crafted for women who navigate their reality with unapologetic authenticity. The collection’s fluid yet precisely tailored silhouettes quietly channel the spirit of late‑1960s liberation movements, offering an understated yet resolute declaration of individuality and fundamental freedoms. Drawing upon the inspiration of fearless muses – Donyale Luna, Elsa Peretti, and Marina Schiano – Valli conjures a narrative that whispers empowerment while speaking volumes in style. This immersive journey invites us to reconsider tradition and reimagine a future where refined modernity and personal liberation coalesce.
Marco Tassini:
Could you share with us the inspiration behind this collection and tell me more about the remarkable women who have influenced your creative vision? I’ve noticed that you have drawn inspiration from a diverse group of women.
Giambattista Valli:
I am always inspired by a collective of women, by the diversity of their personalities and the strength of their mental attitudes. Their mental independence, unique style, and personal choices constantly fascinate me. For this collection, I selected women who were leaders during a pivotal historical moment up until the 1960s, a time marked by immense freedom and profound revolutions: from women’s liberation and the sexual revolution to youth rebellion and vibrant artistic upheavals. Donyale Luna, the groundbreaking black model who revolutionised the representation of beauty; Elsa Peretti, with her extraordinary androgynous elegance; and Marina Schiano, whose vibrant individuality shines through, all of these women, through their openness, freedom, curiosity, and eagerness to embrace new cultures, have left an indelible mark on my work. Revisiting this era is, for me, a way to envision a future informed by the empowering legacies of the past.
M T:
In your collection, I noticed the exquisite detail of wool embroideries and other meticulous techniques. Could you explain the narrative that these intricate details convey?
G V:
There is an overarching narrative throughout the collection, a story about care, a gentle touch for the soul. My aim was to create garments that are equally at home on the runway as they are in a woman’s everyday wardrobe. This required a blend of extraordinary craftsmanship, from haute couture atelier techniques to refined industrial processes. We employed specialised techniques such as individually embroidered wool rovings, with nuanced colour gradients on tulle, to form coats and jackets that are remarkably lightweight. Alongside this, meticulous handwork such as fabric pleating opened gently with steam, combined with precision bias-cutting, results in silhouettes that are both essential and delicately expressive. It is this duality, the precision of cutting and the exuberance of volants or chiffon billows, that lies at the heart of our creative narrative.
The show opens gently, cocooning bodies in soft ivory and pastel bouclé yarns, each piece meticulously tailored and occasionally adorned with delicate poppy flowers reminiscent of fine tapestry. The ethereal charm of Chantilly lace and lurex lace-embellished silk organza forms a striking counterpoint to structured daywear, where compact jersey fabrics elegantly replace traditional gabardines in flared trousers and chic cabans. As the collection unfolds, textural depth gives way to opulence. Thousands of multicoloured wool rovings, hand-embroidered onto coats, yield an opulent, tactile softness, while rustic luxury emerges in buttoned, sequined yarn bouclés that evoke the cherished nostalgia of heirloom bedcovers. Evening sophistication materialises in floor-length tuxedo-inspired ensembles, seamlessly blending sharp precision with shimmering, bias‑cut black-and‑gold-striped sequins. Valli’s signature bohème flourishes through intricate “broom flower” prints on fluid silk georgettes and jerseys, reflecting a nuanced palette of blush, chocolate, periwinkle, peridot, rouge noir, and rosebud. This nomadic allure is further echoed in graphic ikat motifs, intricate paisley fields, and chimera shawl embroideries, each element narrating its own unique visual poetry.
Accessories amplify this narrative: the “French Kiss” satin flats and elegant knee‑high boots exhibit exquisite Italian craftsmanship, while playful “Nappa Bow” PVC slippers introduce a flirtatious twist. The Maison’s iconic maxi and mini “AirBags” return in vibrant shades, perfectly complemented by the hand‑interwoven leather “Valli Weave” bucket and mini‑basket bags. Ultimately, this collection is a refined invitation to embrace femininity unrestrained by convention—a narrative of liberation and personal elegance that is as much about living beautifully, authentically, and fearlessly as it is about fashion.
M T:
Lastly, the ‘French Kiss’ footwear is both evocative and daring. Could you share with us the symbolism behind these pieces?
G V:
‘French Kiss’ embodies revolution, it is an expression of ownership over one’s lips and the freedom to bestow a kiss as desired. It encapsulates a philosophy of embracing, loving, and engaging in meaningful dialogue. The sculpted leather lips not only evoke intimacy but also symbolise the freedom of expression, reminding us of the importance of maintaining conversation even between contrasting perspectives.
Giambattista Valli extends a refined invitation to embrace femininity unrestrained by convention, crafting a narrative of liberation and personal elegance, to live beautifully, authentically, and fearlessly.
photos © Marco Tassini
