Art and Time: The Fusion of Beauty and Abstract Expressionism in High Horology
by Alexandra I. Mas
In a celebration of exceptional craftsmanship and artistic ingenuity, an extraordinary collection of haute horlogerie pieces has emerged, a sublime synthesis of art, technical mastery, and the emotive force of abstract expressionism. Drawing inspiration from the iconic universe of CHANEL Beauty, this collection transforms the wristwatch into a living canvas – not just one, but five – each capturing details of a larger artwork. Radiant hues and an innovative enamel application technique evoke the effect of drippings, as if created by an artist with complete freedom.
J12 BOX “DRIPPING ART” Numbered and limited to 5 sets 5 J12 watches Black highly resistant ceramic case Sapphire crystal caseback with “N°X/5” numbering Steel with black coating and black ceramic fixed bezel with motif in Grand Feu enamel Black ceramic dial with motif in Grand Feu enamel Steel with black coating non-screw-down crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat) Black highly resistant ceramic bracelet and steel triple-folding buckle Caliber 12.1: self-winding manufacture movement, chronometer-certified by the COSC*, with black coating Power reserve: ~70 hours Functions: hours, minutes, seconds Water-resistance: 50 meters Diameter: 38 mm Diamonds: 5 brilliant- cut diamonds (~0.8 carat) Carats and materials are indication only. The values are non-binding.
The Art of Enamel
Creating these remarkable watches is as much an artistic pursuit as it is a technical tour de force. The Manufacture meticulously conducted over 100 enamel color tests to capture the precise shades envisioned by the creative studio. Nearly 200 hours of intensive research were devoted to refining the methods required to apply enamel on ceramic, a material celebrated for its resilience yet notorious for its inherent challenges in high temperature.
Each timepiece endures an exacting process: the application of enamel to both bezel and dial demands approximately 30 hours of painstaking work per unit. Presented as a unified set of five, housed within a single, exquisitely designed box, the ensemble reflects a total of 150 hours of artisanal labor dedicated to achieving the desired effect.
The “Grand Feu” Challenge
At the core of this artistic journey lies the formidable “Grand Feu” enamel process. Achieving an impeccable balance of colors necessitated the development of not merely one, but five harmoniously integrated hues. Guided by a material sciences expert and involving over 100 experimental trials, the process perfected both the enamel’s formulation and its application. The dial is first laser-etched to ensure a precise and consistent outline on every piece. Then, employing the champlevé enameling technique, liquid enamel is applied with a delicate tiny brush and subsequently fired at 800°C. This rigorous sequence is repeated multiple times to build layers that yield both striking intensity and a refined tactile relief on the ceramic surface.
Ceramic, revered for its strength, presents a significant technical obstacle as it remains static during firing, unlike enamel which expands and contracts. This disparity can cause cracking during the cooling phase. After two months of dedicated research, the team devised an innovative solution—introducing an intermediary layer between the ceramic and the enamel. This ingenious addition contracts in harmony with the enamel during cooling, thereby averting fissures and ensuring a robust, enduring finish.
The contours of the design are engraved with laser precision, ensuring the enamel is applied with micron-level accuracy while respecting the motif.
The enamel is then delicately applied by hand, stroke by stroke, by the skilled enameler.
The sharpness of the contours enhances the glossy effect of the nail polish-inspired finish.
Approximately 200 hours of research were dedicated to perfecting the techniques for applying enamel onto ceramic.
Positioned on a small tripod, the dial is ready for firing.
The firing process takes place at around 800°C, with each color requiring a precisely calculated temperature, accurate to the degree.
Exposed to this intense heat, the enamel powder melts and fuses, creating a smooth, uniform layer—a process known as “nappage.”
Upon removal from the kiln, the enamel emerges flawless, seamless, and luminous.
A true innovation, the application of enamel to the ceramic dial and bezel was a highly demanding technical feat.
Each color forms a drop, its domed profile accentuating the dynamic splash effect, reminiscent of a droplet of nail polish in motion.
The meticulous enameling of the bezels and dials of the J12 “DRIPPING ART” collection required a total of 150 hours of craftsmanship.
From Jackson Pollock to CHANEL
It is just as the famous song says, the marriage between a star and a lion – the powerful and radical spirit of Jackson Pollock’s pioneering painting techniques and the CHANEL beauty pallet. For the new BLUSH collection, the dial and bezel of the iconic J12 have been reimagined as a dynamic canvas, where droplets of “nail polish” in a spectrum of shades—from delicate pinks and warm beiges to bold near-reds—are applied using a technique that directly echoes Pollock’s dripping style. This approach not only allows the colors to flow and meld organically across the surface, but it also infuses each piece with the spontaneous energy and emotional depth characteristic of the Abstract Expressionism movement, forging an ever-evolving captivating visual narrative.
Art is the deepest expression of our inner world. In an age defined by trans-aesthetic exploration, this harmonious fusion of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary artistic innovation continues CHANEL’s venerable legacy of nurturing the fine arts and safeguarding artisanal traditions. Every facet of these timepieces reflects a passion for creativity where art, time, and beauty coalesce into one singular expression – resonating deeply with the revolutionary ethos of Pollock.
This exclusive collection of five wrist-ready masterpieces invites us to transcend the conventional. It stands as a vibrant crossroads of haute horology and abstract expressionism, a reminder that art is not confined solely to canvases and galleries but can be intricately woven into the fabric of everyday life. We witness here the culmination of expert craftsmanship and scientific precision and a certain profound transformative beauty that evolves with each new CHANEL creation.
cover photo @ Marco Tassini
CHANEL Haute Horlogerie
*Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute
