By Alexandra I. Mas
In its latest timepieces, CHANEL Haute Horlogerie has taken inspiration from the graphic aesthetic of CHANEL beauty products, venturing into the realms of Pop Art, Surrealism, even the playful expressiveness of contemporary manga. These unique or limited edition watches reinterpret Gabrielle Chanel’s iconic presence through vibrant color, contrast, and fun.
“The aesthetic vocabulary of CHANEL’s beauty creations is both fascinating and graphically inspiring. I admire the commanding elegance of these objects—their sophisticated architecture, distinctive and layered geometry; and the radical use of black lacquer that illuminates the texture of a bold red or a soft rosy powder. There is an artistic compositional quality to these CHANEL creations. In haute horlogerie, these palettes, pencils, brushes, pigments and textures have led me to draw parallels with artistic movements such as Dripping Art and Pop Art. Why not adorn time itself to render it more beautiful? I have applied this vision to the entire collection.”
— Arnaud Chastaingt, Director of CHANEL’s Watchmaking Creation Studio
Taking inspiration from Roy Lichtenstein’s pioneering Pop Art style, the MADEMOISELLE J12 BLUSH (see cover photo ) is a striking interplay of graphic lines. This timepiece presents Gabrielle Chanel in a black-and-white illustration, seated at her makeup table, a scene that could belong to a classic comic panel. The artistry extends beyond static illustration, the makeup elements, including lipsticks, powders, and eyeshadows, are meticulously printed with powdery silver and pink tones on a rotating disc. Completing a full revolution every five minutes, adding a fun kinetic feature.
Encased in black highly resistant ceramic, the watch boasts a matte black-coated steel bezel with a black-varnished sapphire crystal ring. Its sapphire crystal caseback, engraved with “LIMITED EDITION,” reveals the Caliber 12.1 self-winding Manufacture movement, an exceptional COSC-certified chronometer with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. A black-coated steel crown, set with a brilliant-cut diamond (~0.16 carat), adds a final touch of refined brilliance.
other details :38mm case diameter, high water resistance (50 meters)
BOY·FRIEND “COCO ART”
White gold, tampography, Grand Feu enamel, black coating steel case, 38 baguette-cut radiant pink sapphires, and black spinel cabochon, matte black calfskin strap with a satin effect, black shiny trims and steel with black coating triple folding buckle, and manual-winding mechanical movement, water-resistance: 30 meters, dimensions: 37 x 28.6 x 7.85 mm, limited ediiton of 20
This joyfull dial, enriched with a printed illustration and decal elements, bursts to life with its gradient of pink hues. The lacquered bezel, applied with meticulous care, surrounds the scene, embodying CHANEL’s dedication to artisanal excellence. A quilted maching calfskin strap, lined in black, completes the look, reinforcing the House’s signature elegance.
Every detail of the BOY·FRIEND BLUSH speaks to the whimsical, bold and precise nature of manga artistry. This limited-edition piece is a playful homage to the boundless creativity of Asian art.
BOY·FRIEND BLUSH “COCO KISS”
Black-coated steel case, Black-coated steel caseback with “LIMITED EDITION” mention, Black-coated steel bezel with pink lacquer, Dial with a printed illustration of Mademoiselle and sticker in shades of pink, Black-coated steel crown with black spinel cabochon, Interchangeable pink quilted calfskin leather strap with black patent leather trim, black leather lining and black-coated steel ardillon buckle, High-precision quartz movement, Water resistance: 30 meters
Dimensions: 27.9 x 21.5 x 6.2 mm
MADEMOISELLE PRIVÉ PIQUE-AIGUILLES “BEAUTY ART”
unique piece
Featuring a titanium case with a black coating and an 18-carat yellow gold caseback, this 55 mm timepiece boasts a steel bezel set with 84 baguette-cut pink sapphires. The black lacquered dial is adorned with sculpted 18-carat yellow gold hands and markers—with accents including half-cultured pearls, pink sapphires, and elements in 18-carat yellow gold with black coating and enamel—framed by miniature necklaces set with 10 brilliant-cut diamonds and 14 pearls, and bordered by 120 brilliant-cut diamonds and 234 miniature pearls. Crafted by LES CADRANIERS DE GENEVE*, the hands feature a central brilliant-cut diamond. A black-coated steel crown and a grosgrain bracelet with calfskin lining, fastened by an 18-carat yellow gold buckle set with 45 brilliant-cut diamonds, complete the design. Driven by a high-precision quartz movement and water-resistant to 30 meters, the watch incorporates a total of 176 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.09 carat) and 86 baguette-cut pink sapphires (~7.60 carats).
Surrealism: A Legacy in CHANEL Horology
From the avant-garde salons of the early 20th century to the intricate craftsmanship of contemporary watchmaking, the heritage of CHANEL is deeply entwined with the artistic revolutions of its time. Gabrielle Chanel’s friendships with the leading surrealist artists of her era—Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, and Man Ray—infused her creative vision with an otherworldly elegance, where fashion and fine art merged seamlessly. These artistic exploration finds its ultimate expression in CHANEL’s exceptional horological creations—tiny masterpieces that encapsulate her passion for art in miniature.
Channeling the essence of surrealist artistry, the Mademoiselle Privé Pincushion watch transforms beauty essentials into a sculptural masterpiece. The delicate hands of Mademoiselle Chanel, sculpted in 18K yellow gold and adorned with pink sapphires, reach toward an assemblage of makeup treasures—a nod to her innovation in beauty products, as well as and artistic self-expression. Crafted with miniature painting, blackened gold, and Grand Feu enamel, objects such as a lipstick tube, an eyeshadow palette, and nail polish seem to float against the inky black dial, their exquisite realism elevated by expert craftsmanship.
A glowing perimeter of 120 brilliant-cut diamonds and 234 miniature pearls in 18K yellow gold frames this enchanting composition. The case itself is a marvel: 55mm of titanium with a black coating, anchored by an 18K yellow gold caseback and a steel bezel set with 84 baguette-cut pink sapphires (~7.60 carats). The steel crown, echoing the watch’s moody elegance, completes the aesthetic harmony. Secured by a luxurious grosgrain strap with a calfskin lining and an 18K yellow gold triple folding buckle set with 45 brilliant-cut diamonds, this timepiece is as wearable as it is breathtaking.
other details : high-precision quartz movement, water-resistant to 30 meters, a total of 176 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.09 carat) and 86 baguette-cut pink sapphires (~7.60 carats)
The AMULET WATCH “PROTECT ME” is a poetic testament to Gabrielle Chanel’s fascination with symbolism and protection. At its heart lies an exquisite motif: an all-seeing eye. Crafted by the master artisans at Les Cadraniers de Genève*, the eye is realized in Grand Feu enamel, a technique requiring unparalleled precision. The watch’s splendor is heightened by 332 meticulously selected diamonds – white, beige, and brown – chosen over five months to create a dazzling gradient effect. The eye motif alone demanded two months of devoted craftsmanship, culminating in an 18K white gold dial, itself set with a constellation of diamonds.
Suspended from a sumptuous 18K yellow gold chain, adorned with 210 brilliant-cut diamonds, a central diamond, and onyx, this amulet watch blurs the boundaries between jewelry and timepiece. Its case, a combination of titanium with black coating and 18K yellow gold, is trimmed with 98 brilliant-cut diamonds. The intricate decorative elements include 22 brilliant-cut diamonds, 310 brilliant-cut fancy brown diamonds, and 234 miniature pearls in 18K yellow gold, all encircled by 100 brilliant-cut diamonds. At its core, a high-precision quartz movement ensures flawless timekeeping, while its water resistance of 30 meters attests to its durability. With a 19mm diameter, this timepiece is a whisper of surrealist enchantment.
Instruments of time, surrealist horology masterpieces, precision and poetry, each watch carries the whispers of Gabrielle Chanel’s artistic lineage, her fascination with the mysterious, and her relentless pursuit of beauty.
AMULET WATCH”PROTECT ME”
unique piece
The case is crafted in titanium with a black coating and accented in 18K yellow gold, trimmed with 98 brilliant-cut diamonds (approximately 1.51 ct). The 18K yellow gold plate, featuring Grand Feu enamel, is adorned with 22 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.47 ct) and 310 brilliant-cut fancy brown diamonds (6.49 ct). Its décor is circled by 100 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.05 ct) and 234 miniature 18K yellow gold pearls, produced by LES CADRANIERS DE GENEVE*. The dial, in 18K white gold, is set with 100 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.61 ct) and is complemented by 18K yellow gold hands. An 18K yellow gold chain, featuring 210 brilliant-cut diamonds (15.26 ct), one brilliant-cut centre diamond (0.70 ct), and onyx, completes the ensemble. Powered by a high-precision quartz movement (hours and minutes functions), the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters and measures 19 mm in diameter. In total, the timepiece incorporates 842 brilliant-cut diamonds (approximately 25.39 ct) plus one centre diamond (0.70 ct).
photos @ Marco Tassini
CHANEL Haute Horlogerie
*LES CADRANIERS DE GENEVE, property of FP Journe
Caratages and materials are indicative only; values are non-contractual.
