Stephen Jones – Hats of an artist

by Diane Pernet

Anticipation is high as the Palais Galliera prepares to host “Stephen Jones: Hats of an Artist,” an exhibition celebrating the remarkable oeuvre of one of the world’s most prolific milliners, Stephen Jones, from the 1980s to the present. Stephen Jones, undoubtedly one of the most elegant and articulate individuals I’ve ever encountered, creates work that seems plucked from a dream.

Back in 2009, I attended “Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones” at the Victoria and Albert Museum, an event etched in my memory. Guests were asked to dress up, adding a layer of glamour and humour to the occasion. Beyond the spectacle, we were granted a glimpse into the intricate process behind Jones‘s extraordinary hat creations.

This is the first time in over forty years that the Palais Galliera has dedicated an entire exhibition to hats, treating them as works of art. The exhibit focuses on Stephen Jones‘ creative process, his inspirations, and the significant influence Paris has had on his work.

Stephen Jones, born in 1957 near Liverpool and trained at Saint Martin’s School of Art, opened his first boutique in London in 1980 and soon began producing two hat collections annually. A figure in the “New Romantics” movement, he entered the fashion scene through connections in the music world, notably with Boy George. Over the years, he has collaborated with top designers and fashion houses such as Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, and Louis Vuitton.

While perhaps not a household name outside the fashion world, Stephen Jones is a pivotal figure in the industry, significantly shaping some of the most memorable collections for major fashion houses. His hats have been integral to enhancing iconic silhouettes since the 1980s.

The exhibition delves into Jones‘ deep connection with Paris, French culture, and couture. Moving to Paris and working with local fashion houses transformed his approach to design. His collections reflect his Parisian influences, featuring themes inspired by the city’s symbols, French history, the Parisian woman, and tributes to French designers.

The exhibit includes nearly 400 works, over 170 hats, and Jones’ archives, along with around forty complete outfits combining clothing and hats. These ensembles highlight his enduring partnerships with major fashion houses, especially Christian Dior, with whom he has worked for over twenty-five years. Renowned for his creativity and daring, Stephen Jones has become a significant figure in Parisian fashion.